All Hail The Dark: Butternut Squash And Caramelized Onion Galette

I hate making gluten-free crust, but a galette is a little different. It’s meant to look rustic, and a patch here or there won’t affect anything.

Add a no-stress crust with a luscious butternut squash filling, and you have a big slice of perfection, even when it’s not perfect.

Non-gluten-free people? Just make a regular pie crust (or roll out a store-bought one. Nobody is judging you in this season of dark and quiet).

Butternut Squash And Caramelized Onion Galette

Ingredients

Crust

1 1/4 cups gluten-free all-purpose flour (regular flour works, too)

pinch of salt

1 stick of very cold butter, cut into bits (or frozen and grated)

1/4 cup Greek yogurt (or sour cream, or regular yogurt)

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/4 cup ice water (seriously. Ice water. Don’t skimp. Cold tap doesn’t work.)

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon of salt

pinch of sugar (OPTIONAL)

Filling

1 medium onion, sliced in half moons

cayenne to taste

2 cups butternut squash in 1/2″ dice (about one medium squash, peeled, seeded, and diced)

2 teaspoons dried sage

1 cup shredded provolone cheese

salt and pepper to taste

Method

Make pastry first, as it needs to chill. You can even make it the day before.

Method one: Combine flour and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to mix. In a small bowl, combine Greel yogurt/sour cream and lemon juice. Add butter to flour and salt in food processor and pulse until the mixture resembles cornmeal. Add sour cream mixture and pulse to combine. Slowly add ice water until dough comes together.

Method two: Combine flour and salt in a large bowl. In a small bowl, combine sour cream and lemon juice. Using a pastry cutter or fingers, rub butter into flour until mixture resembles cornmeal. Add sour cream mixture and mix well. Add ice water and mix until dough comes together.

Turn dough out onto a sheet of plastic wrap and press together into a ball. Wrap tightly and chill for an hour.

Melt butter in a hot pan and add onions, salt, and sugar (if using). Turn heat down and slowly cook onions until caramelized, about 30 minutes. Once caramelized, sprinkle with cayenne and set aside.

Preheat oven to 375. Line a baking sheet with foil (for easier clean-up. #Trust).

Toss butternut squash with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread in a  single layer on the baking sheet. Roast squash in oven until soft, stirring once. This will take about 30 minutes.

In a large bowl, combine squash, onions, cheese, and sage. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside while you roll out the crust.

I use a piece of parchment paper to roll out my crust, as this makes for super easy transfer to a baking sheet.

Place chilled dough on parchment. Place plastic wrap on top of the dough (this keeps pastry from sticking to the rolling pin without adding extra flour, which can dry pastry out) and roll out into a circle roughly 12″ in diameter and no more than a 1/4″ thick.

Pile butternut squash mixture in the center, leaving about 1 1/2″ around the edge without filling. Fold the edges of the pastry over and pinch to seal any gaps. I use a bench scraper to pick up the dough so that I am not warming it up by touching it more than I have to.

Keeping galette on the parchment, transfer to a baking sheet and bake for about 40 minutes (check at 20) until the edges are golden brown.

Remove from oven and let stand for at least five minutes before serving.

Recipe notes

  • This pastry works for sweet fillings as well. Apple galette is in our future. Brush the crust with milk or cream and sprinkle with turbinado sugar before baking.
  • If your edges rip (as mine did), just make a patch with some of the other pastry.
  • If you happen to be in the grocery store and happen to buy those pre-cut butternut squash cubes and decide to use those instead of peeling and dicing a whole squash, consider that a win. Butternut squash can be a bitch.
  • An alternate method of roasting a squash is to cut it in half and remove the seeds. Brush flesh with oil and place flesh-side-down on a foil-lined baking sheet. Roast in oven at 350 until skin is easily pierced with a fork. Scoop flesh out of the skin and proceed with onions and cheese.

No Cap: Tortilla Soup

The garnishes seem overwhelming, but this is also delicious without a single addition.

I am going to share a top secret recipe today that is fail-proof, delicious, cheap, and vegan (if you skip some of the garnishes). It’s because I LOVE YOU, and I want you to have good things in your life. That’s why.

Not even going to make you sit through a story — just soup, soup, and more soup. Enjoy.

Tortilla Soup

Ingredients

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup yellow onion, chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 jalapeño, finely chopped (keep as many or as few seeds as you like)

 Salt and pepper

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons puréed chipotles in adobo (see Recipe Notes)

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes (or two smaller cans)

2 cups vegetable or chicken stock (I used veg for the vegetarian)

1 can of corn kernels (or fresh, about 2 cups)

1 can black or dark red kidney beans

GARNISHES, ANY OR ALL

Avocado, chopped

Tortilla chips

Shredded Colby jack (or cheese of your choice)

Sour cream

Chopped fresh cilantro

Red onion, finely chopped

Method

Heat oil over medium heat in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Add onion, garlic, green chilis/jalapeño, and season with salt and pepper. Cook until onion is soft (5-8 minutes).

Add chili powder and cumin and stir to coat. Cook a minute or two until spices open up, then add chipotle purée and tomatoes. Season again with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes start to caramelize a bit on the bottom of the pot (the time for this varies depending on your pot, the heat, etc. But there will be less liquid and the tomatoes will brown slightly. Mine took about ten minutes).

Add vegetable stock, corn, and beans. Bring to a simmer and reduce heat to low. Simmer uncovered 15-20 minutes and taste for seasoning.

At this point, the soup is done. It can be set aside and reheated, and it’s even better the next day. It freezes perfectly.

Garnish the hell out of your soup, or eat it plain. Delicious either way.

This soup’s spice can be moderated by adding fewer seeds/veins from whatever pepper you choose.

Recipe Notes

  • When you open a can of chipotle chilis in adobo, dump in a blender and purée. Remove the amount you need for the soup, then place the rest in a Ziploc bag and flatten. Freeze. Break off chunks of deliciousness as needed.
  • Add grilled, shredded chicken (or rotisserie chicken from the store – EASY) for carnivores.

That Beef Stew Thing

A white ceramic bowl holds a stew of beef with white chunks of potato, bright orange carrots, and fresh chopped green chives. It's sitting on a wooden cutting board in front of a brick wall.
A steamy bowl of unconditional love.

So The Child is coming home for the holidays, and she has requested a few things for food. Salad (shocking), spice cake (not as shocking), and That Beef Stew Thing.

“That Beef Stew Thing” is what she has asked for since I casually tossed it together back in 2014, whenever she wants something hot and flavorful and slightly spicy but just generally warming.

It’s probably not the most traditional type of curry recipe, as it calls for a powdered mix, which seems like maybe sacrilegious, except I don’t know from curry, and when I made it was just trying to get my child to eat during a really tough year. I found the recipe on The Kitchn, linked above, and have made precious few adjustments or changes, mostly to the amount of beef, spice, or vegetables (sometimes I’ll only use sweet potatoes). Also, in my original post on this subject, I noted the conspicuous lack of salt. For God’s sake, salt your food.

Choose any curry you like. This also makes killer leftovers.

Finally, this is the posh version of That Beef Stew Thing because there was no stew beef or beef short ribs to be had in these COVID times. So I grabbed a pricey grass-fed steak and cut it into chunks, and ZOWIE. It’s good. If you’ve got the ducats for that, yay, you. Otherwise, this is equally delicious (if not more, honestly) with a lean cut of beef that needs a little time to get tender.

That Beef Stew Thing (originally called Korean Curry Rice)

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
1 pound boneless beef short ribs, cut into 1-inch cubes (or any kind of stew beef in cubes)
1 medium onion, diced
Curry powder (honestly, to taste, any kind you like)
2 medium carrots, peeled and cubed
2 small red or yellow potatoes, peeled and cubed
1/2 large sweet potato, peeled and cubed
3 cups stock (veg or chicken)
Salt and pepper (season properly or it won’t taste great)
Steamed rice for serving
Optional: Kimchi for serving


Method
Heat the sesame oil over medium-high heat in a large pot. Add the boneless beef short rib and diced onions, season with salt and pepper, and brown on all sides. Add curry powder and cook, stirring, until the spices begin to open up.


Add the carrots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and stock and mix well. Bring to a boil and then turn down to a simmer, really a lazy slow one, until the beef is tender and the veg is cooked through (this is a good one for a tagine, perhaps, with enough stock, or a clay bean pot? Not sure but will definitely try the bean pot, as I have one.). If you like a thicker stew or want something more like a curry with sauce, make a slurry with 1 tablespoon of cornstarch and 1 tablespoon of the stew liquid. Mix completely, then add into the stew and stir through. This will thicken up nicely without any off flavor.

Serve over steamed rice with some kimchi on the side.

How to Stop and When to Die: Sweet Potato, Broccoli, Mushrooms, and Kale in Coconut Broth

It’s hard to take a good picture of this, but I can tell you with utter certainty that it is fucking delicious.

One of my favorite artists, Marina Abramovic, said this in the documentary Blurred Lines: Inside the Art World:

“It’s important as an artist to know how to stop and when to die.”

I am not sure why this strikes me as so profoundly true, but it does. I have long planned to take up smoking again when I hit 80, and I am adamantly opposed to overstaying my welcome here on this earthly plane.

But the time to stop (and the time to die) are not yet here. Even in this garbage fire of a country, with literal fires in the west and metaphorical fires everywhere, there is still much work to be done.

Here’s some fuel for your good work.

Sweet Potato, Broccoli, Mushrooms, and Kale in Coconut Broth
(serves 4 to 6)

There is a lot of chopping here, but don’t let that scare you off. Use pre-chopped veggies as needed to make this largely hands-off, and feel free to swap out vegetables that you prefer. Optional but recommended is fresh cilantro for serving. See Recipe Notes for optional additions for carnivores.

Ingredients

3 tablespoons ghee or olive oil
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
½ teaspoon coriander seed
½ large yellow onion, diced (about ¾ cup)
2 cloves garlic, minced (about 2 teaspoons)
1 tablespoon grated ginger
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into ¼” cubes (about 3 cups)
2 cups of chopped mushrooms (see Recipe Notes)
2 cups broccoli florets
1 13.5-ounce can coconut milk
1 cup chopped walnuts
1 16-ounce bag frozen kale (or 3 cups fresh, chopped small)
Salt and pepper (to taste)
Lemon wedges (for serving)
Optional but highly recommended: fresh chopped cilantro for serving

Method

Heat ghee/olive oil in a large frying pan with high sides over medium heat.

Add mustard and coriander seeds and stir. When they begin to pop, add onion, garlic, and ginger and stir. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to soften.

Add sweet potato, mushrooms, and broccoli. Stir and sauté for 6 minutes, or until the sweet potato just begins to soften slightly.

Add coconut milk, kale, and walnuts and season with salt and pepper. Lower heat, then cover and cook for 10 minutes. Sweet potatoes should be cooked through but not completely mushy, so check at the halfway point.

Check for seasoning and add salt and/or pepper to taste.

Serve with lemon wedges and freshly chopped cilantro.

Recipe Notes

• You can use any type of mushroom in this, so pick which ones you like. They are chopped fine and so the shape does not matter. Portobellos give a great flavor and texture and are recommended, but cremini mushrooms work just as well.
• Feel free to substitute your favorite vegetables here or play with amounts above. Love mushrooms and just tolerate broccoli? Think cabbage might be delicious, or want to try snap peas or butternut squash? Adjust accordingly.
• It’s always an option to add your choice of animal protein to any recipe. In this case, sliced, fried sausage coins would be a delicious addition.

The Renewal: Wild Salmon With Bok Choy, Snap Peas, Fennel, And Crispy Mushrooms

Salmon with bok choy, snap peas, fennel, and crispy mushrooms to greet the new moon.

2020 was the year we all became experts on how far a sneeze can travel in a grocery store.

It was also the year I learned that you cannot erase all of your “recents” documents without actually erasing the document completely from everywhere on your computer, and that because MacBook Pro’s default setting is to encrypt every document you produce, it is nearly impossible to recover anything once you have erased your entire desktop.

Sigh. Par for the course in 2020. Another continuation in a long line of personal losses – of people, of things, of writing.

But. There are still things to be done. Earlier this year I began doing some recipe development for my friend Martha of Full Moon Acupuncture for her School of Renewal.

This Renewal is not a detox or a cleanse. It is not intended to make you feel deprived or hollowed out. It is a chance to re-evaluate what it means to feel truly nourished in all ways – through food, practice, and creativity.

The Renewal begins this Thursday on the New Moon, an excellent time to turn in and reset, to begin something new and set intentions. There is time to sign up still – Martha is offering both self-paced and guided options – and I can tell you that this course (and the person offering it) is something special.

This recipe is one of a couple dozen I developed, the first one, as a matter of fact, and when I put it down in front of KWeeks his comment was, “This is part of a cleanse?!” It is rich and decadent and so very delicious but also good for you and soul-satisfying.

Salmon with Bok Choy, Snap Peas, and Fennel (and Crispy Roasted Mushrooms)
(serves 4)

This decadent dish takes a little time and so works best when you are able to slow down and savor not only the final meal but also the process of making it. Packed with nutrient-dense salmon and vegetables, the Five Tastes, from sweet to sour and a crucial part of the traditional Chinese medicine school of nutritional support, are well represented here.

Ingredients

1 teaspoon coriander seed
3 tablespoons ghee OR olive oil
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 garlic clove minced (about 1 teaspoon)
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
8 ounces snap peas
1 pound bok choy, washed and cut into 2” pieces
1 fennel bulb, top cut off and bulb cut into ¼” pieces (see Recipe Notes)
4 skin-on wild salmon filets, or one two-pound whole filet (see Recipe Notes)
Olive oil (for salmon)
Salt and pepper (for salmon)
Lemon wedges (for serving)
Crispy Roasted Mushrooms (optional, see recipe below)

Method

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line one large baking sheet with parchment paper (you can use lightly greased aluminum foil if you prefer) and another large sheet if you are roasting the mushrooms. Set aside.

Heat a dry sauté pan and add coriander. Swirl coriander in the pan until it becomes fragrant, just a minute or two. This is not required but brings more flavor out of your spices.

In a small bowl, combine coriander, ghee/olive oil, ginger, garlic, apple cider vinegar, salt, and pepper. Mix and set aside.

Place snap peas, bok choy, and fennel in a large mixing bowl and pour the coriander dressing over them. Stir vegetables to coat (you can use your hands). Taste to check for salt and pepper.

Pour vegetables onto baking sheet, saving space for your salmon. It is ok if the vegetables are on top of each other. Slide into preheated oven and set the timer for 10 minutes.

At 10 minutes, it’s time to put the salmon in the oven.

If you are brining your salmon, pat dry and place on baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Give your veggies a stir, then place salmon on baking sheet to cook, skin side down. Total cooking time is around 20 to 25 minutes (20 minutes for veg, and ten or so minutes for salmon).

When the fish is cooked the way you like it, remove the sheet from oven.

Serve with lemon wedges and top with Crispy Roasted Mushrooms.

Recipe Notes

• To prepare fennel, cut the tops off and freeze for vegetable stock. Cut the bulb in half from top to bottom and remove the core (it’s tough and not tasty). Place the flat side on your cutting board and cut into ¼” pieces.
• A few notes on salmon. Wild salmon in season is always more economical than out of season. The most affordable kind of salmon, with less fat and a milder flavor, is keta. Coho, sockeye, Copper River, and King salmon are intensely flavorful fish but can be quite expensive. Most are available frozen year-round.
• Salmon releases albumin when cooked. This harmless protein can be unappetizing to look at. If you would like to minimize this in your fish, brine salmon for 10 minutes before cooking in a solution of 1 tablespoon of salt per cup of water. When ready to cook, pat salmon dry and proceed to cook as directed.

Crispy Roasted Mushrooms

These are easy and delicious, good for snacking and adding texture and umami to food. They can also be added to salads and lunch wraps; the recipe easily doubles.

Ingredients

One pound assorted mushrooms, sliced (shitake, oyster, cremini, etc)
2 teaspoons dried marjoram
½ cup olive oil
Salt, to taste

Method

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

In a large bowl, toss mushrooms, marjoram, and olive oil until thoroughly mixed.

Pour onto baking sheet, making sure the mushrooms have plenty of room.

Roast for around 15 to 20 minutes until crispy.

Remove from oven and sprinkle with salt to taste.